Journey Travel

The Good and Bad side of Marseille


Marseille is a pretty big “port” city close to the Mediterranean Sea, which has lot of coves where you can go for swimming or to lounge in the sun. 

I took the FlixBus from Montpellier. It was much cheaper than the train. It drops you at the main train station – Gare Saint Charles. As you exit the station, you are welcomed by the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral perched on top of the hill. The main problem I’ve with this train station is lack of proper signage for exit. If you take the wrong exit, you will have to schlep your luggage through tons of steps, by tons I mean more than 50. 

Google map didn’t provide me easy transportation option to my Airbnb in Old Town. So, I ended up walking, with luggage on both hands. With lots of twists and turns from up hill to down hill, I finally made it to my apartment. 

Paulo, my host, showed me the place and made time to give me information about what to see in town, which ended up being very helpful. My room had the best view of the Cathedral and if I peaked outside the window, I could even see the sea. 

We had some nice chats and shared our travel stories. He highlighted his frustration with the French administration, and it seems like a repeating theme that the locals are not happy that their country is becoming more conservative and their way of lifestyle is at risk as they will become minority in their own country. He was pretty blunt to say that in 20 years France might just become an Islamic state. 

He shared stories about how his friend who is a struggling artist and white, was denied any help by the government administrative staff when she applied, their response was – you are white, go and get a job. Since most of the administrative jobs in the public sector are held by immigrants, they prefer to take care of their own. May be this is an isolated incident or it’s just happening in Marseille, in either case, it shows the frustration of the locals. 

May be Marseille is a big port city and has attracted lot of immigrants from nearby Mediterranean and African countries but I did see lot of women in hijab and African attire. In fact, much more than I had seen in Dubai. I guess France has not done a good job with integrating the immigrants into the French society. There are some areas which didn’t seem inviting at all. In fact, when a woman walked by, young men were gawking and teasing her for the choice of her attire. This made me wonder, what has happened to France! Or was it just this city in France? 

In spite of the hassle of getting from the train station to the old town, I would highly recommend staying in the old town. You are so close to the sea, museum and the charm of the hilly old town district with myriads of stairs. 

After wandering through the old town, it was time to feed my tummy. I had a nice lunch in the terrace with the best views and listening to a musician sing French songs. Life is good. 

After lunch, I headed to the Cathédrale La Major across from my apartment. This Roman Cathedral is beautiful both inside and outside. Reminded me of the Duomo in Florence, Italy. I have to say that Jesus has the best house in Marseille which overlooks the port and is an architectural marvel. I’m jealous!

From there I made my way to Palais Longchamp, a grand park with a fountain that can compete with the Trevi fountain and surrounded by Romanesque architecture. What a great way to relax listening to the sound of the waterfalls! 

Not too far is the Friche La Belle De Mai, which used to a tobacco factory but has now become a creative community that houses cafes, art galleries, startups, restaurant bar, farmers market, art shows, concerts, and lot of activities for children as well. The walk through the tunnel to get to this place was very cool. The ceiling of the tunnel has art pieces attached to it. You would only know about this place if you are a local. Thanks to my bnb host who recommended that I go here since I told him I was interested in exploring non touristy stuff. It was a cool experience walking up the “red staircases,” wandering this huge open space, peeking inside art studios and having a glass of wine watching the locals play “Pétanque.” In the evenings, the rooftop is open for dinner, drinks and game time with friends. Evenings are the best time to hangout there.

After a busy day of exploring, it was time to head back. I picked up some food and snacks from the nearby grocery store, and got to my place just in time to watch sunset.


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